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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.